- 04 July 2008 |
- Site Map |
- Brijit Blog |
- Brijit for Facebook |
- FAQ
- The Economist
- | Time
- | The New Yorker
- | Fortune
- | ESPN The Magazine
- | Wired
- | Smithsonian
- | A.V. Club
in Saveur
by
William Woys Weaver, May 2008
Weaver, a culinary historian, discusses the food and history of Cyprus. Cypriot cuisine is multi-faceted -- due to the country's geographic proximity to Turkey, Syria, and Lebanon, its cultural ties to Greece, its varied terrain, and its occupation by many different countries and empires over the centuries. Weaver visits tavernas where he enjoys fava bean stew, halloumi cheese, a native orange called kitromilo, and local favorite horta me avga, sauteed eggs and greens with lemon. There are 23 species of oregano on the island, and it is the earliest recorded viticulture in the Mediterranean, dating back 5,500 years. The author's extensive knowledge and unbridled curiosity make this piece worthwhile.
Posted 3:17, 9 May 2008
This abstract was written by
Emily Fisher
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Frederick Kaufman, May 2008
Kaufman explores the fairly new food-science arena of produce morphology, in which scientists are attempting to decode shape-determining DNA to create, for example, perfectly round tomatoes, more easily shippable square grapefruits, or "a cute little watermelon for a small family." But Kaufman is skeptical; identical, symmetrical produce has a "hypnotic effect" on him, and he somewhat predictably contemplates the philosophical implications of trying to fix "imperfect" fruits and vegetables. Worth a read, if just for the neat graphic of tomato cross-sections that look like brain scans.
Posted 4:35, 1 May 2008
This abstract was written by
Emily Fisher
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Peggy Knickerbocker, May 2008
Knickerbocker's bottom line seems to be that brown rice has a bad rap -- and that it's not just for hippies anymore. She embarks on a journey to rediscover the grain, which has had the inedible hull removed but not the fibrous bran layers. Not surprisingly, this makes it far more nutritious than its white cousin -- it's higher in fiber, minerals, and antioxidants. Interestingly, it also requires more water and a longer time to cook. Knickerbocker talks to a local rice grower and describes the growing process, creating an informative yet warmly personal narrative. Lovely food photos accompany the story -- especially a colorful spread of chicken and brown rice with chorizo.
Posted 4:14, 1 May 2008
This abstract was written by
Emily Fisher
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Litty Mathew, April 2008
Thirty-four years after moving to Los Angeles for political asylum, Mathew returns to her birthplace in Ethiopia to reconnect with family friends and rekindle memories. Filled with friendly fellowship dinners, cultural celebrations, and trips to the market, Mathew's days in Addis Ababa are a nostalgic reintroduction to the sights, sounds, and flavors of her youth. The injera (spongy bread), gomen (greens), misr wot (red lentil stew), and kitfo (spiced raw beef) reflect not only the region's piquant spices but also the deep influence of the Orthodox Church. Mathew's reflective piece and the recipes, images, and practical travel tips that accompany it are an enticement to experience Ethiopian flavors firsthand.
Posted 3:00, 10 April 2008
This abstract was written by
JL Roberts
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Anya Von Bremzen, April 2008
Von Bremzen attends a six-course gourmet meal inspired by elaborate menus created for a noble 19th century St. Petersburg family. The chef for this period-costume dining event is the author's mother, Larisa Frumkin, who emigrated to the United States from Russia in 1974. Borscht kicks off the sit-down meal, followed by a fish pastry called kulebyaka, and then cutlets of chicken pozharsky. Recipes for these pre-Soviet era dishes accompany Von Bremzen's affectionate description of the feast.
Posted 3:48, 8 April 2008
This abstract was written by
Cath Stockbridge
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Nancy Harmon Jenkins, April 2008
Jenkins' fascinating but quixotic search for the ideal ragu alla bolognese recipe yields dozens of variations for this slow-simmered meat sauce, a traditional dish from Bologna, Italy. Surprised at discovering so many different opinions about the addition of tomatoes and milk or the use of lard or olive oil in the cooking process, Jenkins abandons attempts to assemble a single basic recipe and instead tries to establish the origins of the dish. This plan also stumbles into thorny controversy, though one local expert's recommendations -- for loving attentiveness, a good aluminum pan, and the slow-frying technique -- seem fairly unassailable.
Posted 5:32, 7 April 2008
This abstract was written by
Cath Stockbridge
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Rachel Laudan, April 2008
Laudan, a philosophy-professor-turned-food-historian who's lived on five continents, reflects on decades of experience with the cooking traditions of the world. From childhood memories skimming clotted cream in her mother's English farmhouse to the "eclectic harmony" of her kitchen in Guanajuato, Mexico, the influence of culture on her culinary perspective is clear. To Laudan, cooking is not about fancy work spaces but new cultural experiences, unique ethnic ingredients, and recipe exchanges with the locals. In this vivid essay, Laudan describes how her kitchen has become "an ever expanding repository of the trappings of a peripatetic culinary life."
Posted 5:10, 4 April 2008
This abstract was written by
JL Roberts
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Paul Lukacs, April 2008
Twenty years ago Californian vintners coined the word "meritage" to describe a new way of labeling New World wines -- rather than European-style place names or the old standard of dominant grape variety. Now, Lukacs writes with pleasure that the new term has raised the profile of American blended reds well above the "table wine" label it held. However, he notes that the word is too vague and carries no cultural heritage, and as such it's failing to impress oenologists. His conclusion that it should be a stopgap measure until a better naming system comes along seems logical, even necessary.
Posted 4:00, 3 April 2008
This abstract was written by
Nick Slawicz
and edited by Brijit.
Saveur presents a concise overview of vegetarian cuisine as seen through five precedent-setting, veggie-laden cookbooks. The 1913 volume The New Cookery opens a window to a day when Kellogg's was more than just a cereal brand, making its mark on vegetarian cooking with Protose, a meat substitute that consisted of "mashed beans, peanut butter, and onion water." 1972's The Vegetarian Epicure is a testament to its decade, filled with illustrations of "winsome men and women with liberated hair chopping vegetables." Although there's no underlying conclusion, it's a generally informative starting point for cookbook collectors.
Posted 2:24, 1 April 2008
This abstract was written by
Will Russell
and edited by Brijit.
in Saveur
by
Todd Coleman, April 2008
Coleman tells the stories of three classic spaghetti brands: Ragú, Chef Boyardee, and SpagettiOs. The Ragú brand was humbly started in Rochester, New York, by two Italian immigrants selling their family's tomato sauce in mason jars door-to-door. Another immigrant, Hector Boiardi used marketing savvy to phoneticize his Italian name and extended his restaurant's special spaghetti sauce, now an iconic canned ravioli dish. Yet canned spaghetti's official roots started in New York City, with a concoction by Frenchman Alphonse Biardot -- these didn't become SpagettiOs until Campbell's bought it in 1965. Coleman's simmering style provides a base stock for anyone looking for spaghetti-night trivia.
Posted 1:59, 1 April 2008
This abstract was written by
Jeremy Greatrex
and edited by Brijit.